4/29/15
4/26/15
4/25/15
The Memphis Belle
Last April we took a Behind the Scenes Tour of the Restoration Division of the National Museum of the US Air Force. Click for part 1 here, and part 2 here.
A year later we went back, primarily to see the progress on the restoration of the B-17F Memphis Belle, and plan on going back every year until it is done.
The vertical stabilizer is now back on.
The right horizontal stabilizer is being finished.
The tail gunner section was in a separate room being worked on last year, but is now ready to go back in place.
The tail gunner kneels in place, perched on a small seat.
On each side are the boxes for the ammunition belts, which feed alongside the gunner.
A lot of metal work is being done on many areas of the plane.
Much of the activity in the restoration area has to do with the museum expansion. The massive Titan IV space launch vehicle is being readied to be moved and assembled once the new fourth building is completed.
A C-119J is being restored for display in the new building. This particular aircraft was used as a satellite catcher.
This F-104A spent years on outside display at the museum mounted on a pole.
A new canopy has been made for it.
The vertical stabilizer is now back on.
The right horizontal stabilizer is being finished.
The tail gunner section was in a separate room being worked on last year, but is now ready to go back in place.
The tail gunner kneels in place, perched on a small seat.
On each side are the boxes for the ammunition belts, which feed alongside the gunner.
A lot of metal work is being done on many areas of the plane.
Much of the activity in the restoration area has to do with the museum expansion. The massive Titan IV space launch vehicle is being readied to be moved and assembled once the new fourth building is completed.
A C-119J is being restored for display in the new building. This particular aircraft was used as a satellite catcher.
This F-104A spent years on outside display at the museum mounted on a pole.
A new canopy has been made for it.
4/20/15
Cooper Webb
Yamalube Star Racing’s Cooper Webb had already clinched the 250 SX West Championship, but finishes the season with another win and 186 out of the possible 200 points.
photo source: http://starracingyamaha.com/
4/19/15
DT1 MX project
I'm using a standard (non O-ring) 520 chain on the DT. I got a 120 link which usually cost less than shorter specific length chains, and with the '77 RM250B swingarm I didn't know what size I'd need anyway. The first thing is to remove the shocks and line up the front sprocket, swingarm pivot, and the rear axle. This is where the chain will be the tightest.
I moved the axle all of the way forward and see where the chain will meet with two inside links ready to be joined. 110 links (109 and the master link) is what I'll need.
I marked the link to be cut.
I grind down the pins with an angle grinder. The part of the chain that I'll be using is covered with a towel to keep any grinding debris from getting on it.
I then pop the side plate off.
It's shortened.
I then put the chain on the bike and installed the master link.
Once the chain is on then it gets adjusted. I lift the rear wheel up and down and make sure it still has a bit of slack at the tightest point. If you just adjust it with the suspension fully extended, and it binds at the tightest point under compression it can cause bearing, transmission, chain, and sprocket damage or wear.
During mock-up, I'd looked at whether I'd need a tensioner. I didn't think I'd necessarily need one, but decided I go ahead and use one. I bought one from ebay seller trw37v olddirtbike. It is similar to an old Pro-Tec tensioner, and a very nicely made part.
It bolts right on. You use washers to shim it so it is centered. It gets bolted on with the roller removed, than you swing the arms down and install the roller.
The shocks are back on and the chain is good to go.
I moved the axle all of the way forward and see where the chain will meet with two inside links ready to be joined. 110 links (109 and the master link) is what I'll need.
I marked the link to be cut.
I grind down the pins with an angle grinder. The part of the chain that I'll be using is covered with a towel to keep any grinding debris from getting on it.
I then pop the side plate off.
It's shortened.
I then put the chain on the bike and installed the master link.
Once the chain is on then it gets adjusted. I lift the rear wheel up and down and make sure it still has a bit of slack at the tightest point. If you just adjust it with the suspension fully extended, and it binds at the tightest point under compression it can cause bearing, transmission, chain, and sprocket damage or wear.
During mock-up, I'd looked at whether I'd need a tensioner. I didn't think I'd necessarily need one, but decided I go ahead and use one. I bought one from ebay seller trw37v olddirtbike. It is similar to an old Pro-Tec tensioner, and a very nicely made part.
It bolts right on. You use washers to shim it so it is centered. It gets bolted on with the roller removed, than you swing the arms down and install the roller.
The shocks are back on and the chain is good to go.
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